Whew. 13 hours flying nonstop from Beijing to New York is enough to make you think "Wow...what an age of miracles we live in! Halfway across the planet, taking a shortcut over the North Pole, and arrive the same day with half the day left!"
Which is to say: yes, obviously I'm loopy after the experience. As a general rule, if I'm going to be sitting in a seat for 13 hours straight it had better be for an Indiana Jones film marathon. Maybe the "Thin Man" series, if I get to pick the films.
Anyway. There was an unwanted "Amazing Race" aspect to my departure from Asia. Email from a very deal friend commanded my attention; desire to attach a couple of way cool photos to the email took me back into Aperture, where I went into a Photo Editing trance for a little while...etc. I finished packing and left my room with plenty of time to spare. And then on the elevator to the lobby I remembered: International Check-In. Charmless men in polyester wanting to see all kinds of papers and tickets and things.
Oh, crumbs.
And then the hotel waved off a Perfectly Available Taxi because it wasn't specifically the one I had arranged. Ten minute delay, and lots of American-style shouting; I'm proud to say that I left the "You Godless stinking Commies!!!" round safe in the chamber. Still, I promised that I was fully prepared to stage a historical reenactment of the showdown between the man with the shopping bags and the tanks at Tienanmen Square the next time an empty cab came even close to the front door.
Then, the bloody traffic! Well, this is why you plan to arrive way sooner than you need to. It really wasn't so terribly close after all but I made it in at "Final Boarding Call, Please" just fifteen minutes before the door closed.
All's well that ends well. I'm in JFK waiting for my flight home to Boston. I'm seated in a restaurant and have ordered a chicken club sandwich.
Things I realized I've missed, almost the moment I set foot in JFK:
1) Chicken club sandwiches. And the basic concept of walking into a restaurant, knowing instinctively what will be on the menu, and then scanning said menu and ordering exactly the thing you want.
2) Black, hispanic, Indian, etc. faces. The ship was all white and Asian. Even the Western tourists I spotted at various destinations were all white. There's something very American about a crowd scene with (shall we say) High Dynamic Range of tonal values. And something very comforting. The wide range of skin colors means that (oddly enough) everybody blends right in. Whereas in Beijing I suspect I could have stood on any busy corner of any park with my hat upside down at my feet, posed like a dude in the Sears catalogue, and quickly collected about a thousand Yuan from locals.
"Fantastic entertainment!" they'd enthuse as they drop a ten-spot in the hat. "I don't know," I'd respond."Maybe the bathrooms are over there, on the other side of the pavilion?" I never learned much Mandarin, you see.
3) Being able to understand announcements. Even on the ship, most announcements were in Mandarin (I'm guessing. It could have been Mandarin Pig Latin).
4) Being able to spend money without doing any math. And instinctively knowing the buying power of a unit of local currency. I tended to fall back on the Coke Index. How much did a Coke cost in Japan? (100 yen) China? (usually 3 Yuan) Korea? (Umm...) But a moment ago, the waitress handed me my check. Fifteen dollars for a (very good, actually) club sandwich made with fresh, grilled chicken.
I know that this is about five bucks more than this sandwich would normally cost. I know that you're supposed to tip your server. I know that 15% is the barest minimum, 20% is the customary level, and leaving her this Twenty marks me as a customer of taste and breeding.
5) On the subject of Coke: I missed drinking familiar liquids from familiar bottles. There was no shortage of Coke wherever I went (another thing for which the world needs to send us all a collective "Thank You" note for correcting a few wanting elements of their local cultures) and the differences in labels is interesting at first. The "wave device" is intact but how do you approximate that classic flowing script in a pictogram language?
6) The Presumption Of Internet. My first two hours back in the US and I've plugged my MiFi into my netbook and am simply using the 'net. The iPhone and the international data plan was a collective lifesaver, in far too many situations to count. But between the phone and hotel broadband and shipboard Internet kiosks and Internet cafes on shore, accessing the 'net was never routine.
A simile which is vulgar but sadly appropriate: I'm using to behaving like an unhousebroken dog, able to piddle anywhere and everywhere without really giving it a thought. For the past 12 days, I've been not merely a human, but a human with OCD and germphobic issues. I know I'll have to go sometime in the next 36 hours but is there really any chance whatsoever that I'll find a facility meeting my specific requirements in that span of time?
7) A climate suitable for non-amphibians. 75 degrees here in New York City! If there were any days in Asia that were under 90, I was probably still passed out from heat exhaustion from the day before and couldn't enjoy it. Beautiful weather, nothing to complain about. But for the past twelve days I've basically had to have "inside clothes" and "outside clothes." Otherwise, I would have blown through all of my laundry in about four days.
I am not going to miss carrying heavy bags all over the place. I will not miss having to have my passport handy at all times. I will not miss lots and lots of slips of official paper that have to be filled out and then presented and stamped.
Eh?
Oh.
That.
I will also not miss having disembodied voices running my life. My flight is being called and so I must pack and leave.
Soon I will be home. Where the voices that compel me to do awful things emanate reassuringly from the clutch of woodchucks just outside my office window.
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